eyeglasses in gold

Frame no 426, October 2010

Frame opus no: 426
Material: 9 karat gold Design type: half-rim, with fascia and subframe

Sometimes along comes a custom job that makes me sit up and get extra accurate.
This customer request was for a replica of a discontinued factory-made titanium half-rim frame,
and I realised this was to be a frame made to exacting dimensions.

I wanted the customer to understand I was legally prevented to make a replica,
but that I'd make a frame using my standard technology that looked like the original
and that fitted just as well.

Note that I hadn't met the customer, nor am I likely to during the making of the frame.

I chose 9 karat gold for its colour, strength and relative light-weight compared to other
gold alloys, and after several weeks of trial runs, metal gauge tests, and choosing a suitable
method and procedure, I produced a sterling silver frame no 425, and this gold frame, number 426.


Fabricating the gold eyewire subframe in 9k.
It's hard to get the left side the same as
the right, so I popped a gold rivet in each.
Then gold-soldered the joints.
The curly bit will get chopped off later.

The fascia is sawn from gold.
I pasted on a printout from my
CAD application ProCAD+ and
carefully sawed the pieces out.
Note that I've twisted the saw blade
sideways a little in order to saw out the long shape

The fascia is joined to the eyewire subframe.


At some point the lower half of the eyewire
is sawn off. This is where the monofilament
nylon goes, which holds the lens at the bottom.
The lenses will have a groove cut into the edge
all the way around.

Standard optical parts are made from nickel alloy,
so for custom gold frames I prefer not to use them, but
make my own using the same alloy as the frame.

Padarms. The completed padarms before dividing them up
and gold-soldering each to the frame.


Threading the nylon which will hold the lenses.

The finished frame.


'Schubert' in silver 'Schubert' in gold 'Tonto' 'Slingshots' replica 402 415 'Looking Glasses' no 418 replica 419 'Looking Glasses' no 420 silver 422


B r i a n    A d a m    j e w e l l e r y    A u c k l a n d    N E W    Z E A L A N D    brian@adam.co.nz    23rd January, 2011